Almost every month I'm asked if I have a copy of the instructions for the Heritage. I'm not associated with Dura-Craft in any way, so I don't hold the copyrights to this document, but since they've gone out of business, I can't imagine they'd mind me posting this. I took a scan of the instructions and ran it through some OCR software to get it into this form. This may have introduced some typos into the text. For example I found one spot where "post" was incorrectly scanned as "pest". Please be forgiving of these imperfections.



SCALE: 1" = 1'

P.O. Box 438 Newberg, Oregon 97132 phone: (503) 538-3136

(Sorry, Dura-Craft is out of business and this contact info is no longer correct)


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Congratulations on selecting a miniature house kit manufactured by Dura-Craft, Inc., the leader in the industry. We pride ourselves in our high quality and workmanship. Each piece is graded and sorted at several different stages to ensure that you receive the finest quality. A Dura-Craft miniature house is a complete kit. You will not have to make separate purchases of items like the windows and shingles which are a basic part of your house. Your finished house will be ready for painting, wallpapering and decorating. Your finished house will be of heirloom quality, of which you will be justly proud, if ample time and care are used in its construction and finishing.


Here are several construction tips that will help you avoid some problems when you build your miniature house.

An important thing to keep in mind about the kit parts: They are made of wood. Wood shrinks and expands according to humidity. We have found that the siding is most sensitive to dimension changes due to humidity. All siding used in Dura-Craft miniature houses is made from the finest kiln dried Ponderosa Pine. However, as a result of humidity and assembly with a water base glue, some swelling will occur, causing slight dimension changes. Wall panels should be left in a warm dry room at least 48 hours before corner posts are attached. This will prevent walls from cracking. At no time should the house be placed in a cold damp area.

If there is a minor cracking problem there is a simple solution. A thick bead of glue should be run into the gap. Wipe off any excess glue and allow to dry. If necessary, repeat this step until the gap is filled. When the house is painted, there will be no evidence of the gap. We recommend a good quality OIL base paint be applied on any siding to be painted.


NOTE: For shortages or broken parts write directly to Dura-Craft, Inc. for replacement, using the form on the last page of this manual. (Sorry, Dura-Craft is out of business and this statement is no longer correct)

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The following tips will help you avoid problems when you build your miniature house.

1. Save the box. The photo will be very helpful during assembly.

2. Do not remove any pieces from their punch sheet before they are called for in the instructions. This will reduce part warpage and make part identification easier. But, if you plan to paint your house it is easiest to paint all parts before assembly. The walls are best painted after they have been glued together.

3. Read through the instructions carefully once to get a feel for the assembly process and to gain familiarity with the parts.

4. Follow the instructions in order.

5. If you cannot release a part from its board with moderate pressure, then carefully cut it loose with a utility knife. Always cut from the good side of the board where the cut lines are clearly visible.

6. If any parts are missing or damaged, they can be quickly replaced by Dura-Craft. Please write or call and give us the name and sheet number of the part or parts that you need. We have included a "Missing and Broken Parts Replacement Form" to assist you. It may save time to make missing or broken parts from the scrap material. (Sorry, Dura-Craft is out of business and this contact info is no longer correct)

7. We recommend the use of Aleene's Tacky Glue to construct your house. This glue helps hold parts in place while it dries, and it dries clear. It can be found at most craft supply stores. Any white household glue or woodworking glue may be substituted if desired. Wipe away excess glue while it is still fresh.

8. Dura-Craft has done everything possible to ensure that your kit will look good when it is complete. We have included pine moldings to strengthen the house and trim to cover all of the outside wall and floor edges, and we have designed the kit so that slot and tab positions will be hidden when the kit is finished. However, the final quality of your house will depend to some extent on the care you take in preparing each piece for assembly. Sanding is optional, but it will improve your house. It will also remove splinters from the edges of the parts which will help the parts fit better.

9. You will need the following materials to assist you in the assembly of your miniature house:

- Glue (see paragraph 7 above) 
- Utility knife or sharp, sturdy knife 
- 3/4" masking tape 
- Damp cloth 
- Ruler or tape measure 
- Fine toothed saw such as a coping or hacksaw is helpful 
- Pencil 
- 100 grade (med.) sand paper 
- A roll of waxed paper 
- Several large books to use as weights 
- A framing square 
- Contact cement (for hardwood floor) 
- Steel wool (for hardwood floor) 
- Small "C" clamps come in handy 


- Good side- The side the pieces were stamped from. The smoothest side. 
- Bead of glue- A line of glue about as large as a pencil lead. 
- "- inches. 
- Flush- When the edges of two boards are even. 
- Left and right sides- All references will be made from the front view, unless otherwise instructed. 
- Tab- A projection off the edge of a board. 
- Slot- A hole in a board that a tab fits into. 
- Notch- The same as a slot, except it's on the edge of a board. 
- Glass- Silkscreened plastic sheets 
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Click above to see full sized page 4 & 5. Your browser may shrink these images to fit your screen. The images are very readable at full size.

1. Locate all siding parts.

2. Pre-assemble the siding without glue. Lay the pieces flat side down, as shown in Figure 1. The tongue is on the top edge of each board.

3. Use the framing square to insure that the ends of the siding pieces are properly aligned. Make light pencil marks at the top and bottom of each window and door opening for final assembly.

4. Prepare an area for gluing. You will need a hard, flat surface at least three feet by four feet in size. Select a location where the wall panels will not have to be disturbed for several hours after gluing. Tape waxed paper over the entire surface.

5. Use the following technique for gluing the wall panels: Apply a thin bead of glue to the tongue then seat it in the groove. Immediately wipe off any surplus glue that squeezes out, using a damp-but not wet- cloth. Assemble the panels flat side down on the waxed paper. Make sure that all parts are arranged in the correct sequence relative to the pencil marks made in Step #3 above for the door and window openings.

6. Make sure that all joints are tight, and that edges of the walls are square and flush. Place weights on the panels as you finish them. Allow about an hour for the glue to set before moving or adding to the panels.

IMPORTANT: If you must leave the wall panels incomplete for more than two or three hours during this phase of the construction, stand them on edge to allow air to circulate around both sides. This will minimize the likelihood of warping.

7. When wall panels are complete and have set for about an hour, stand them on edge to allow air to reach both sides. Let wall panels dry in a warm, dry place for at lease 24 hours, preferably 48 hours.


1. Locate base floor back, base floor front, right bay floor, and base floor splices (Sheets HR-3,4, and 9). With the good sides of the floor parts facing down splice base floor together by gluing the splices in place as in Figure 2. Tape splices in place.

2. Locate base walls (Sheet HR-2). Interlock and glue parts together as in Figure 3. Glue only the interlocking parts together. There will be six remaining base walls, these are the bay base walls. They will be installed after they have been bricked.

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3. Glue the base floor onto the base walls as in Figure 4.

4. Locate the base floor supports (Sheet HR-l). Interlock and glue to underside of base.

5. Locate the front step treads, risers, walls and supports (Sheet HR-4). Assemble as in Figure 5. Glue in place as in Figure 4.


The hardwood flooring kit contains enough hardwood strips to cover only one floor of the house. This material may alternatively be applied to the door, stairways, or used as wall paneling, but not all. Do not use water base glue for flooring as it will cause hardwood strips to curl. If you do not plan to apply the hardwood to the floor, skip this section.

1. Brush contact cement on the base floor and on one side of the hardwood strips. Follow instructions on the contact cement.

WARNING: Contact cement is extremely volatile and flammable. The working area must be well ventilated. Keep away from flame or sparks.

2. Start laying hardwood strips at the back of the house and work toward the front. Cut the strips with scissors. Off-set the joints as shown in Figure 6.

3. After the hardwood strips are in place, burnish them down by rubbing them firmly with a small wood block.

4. To achieve a pegged appearance, if desired, punch the ends of each strip with a 3/32" nail set as in Figure 7.

5. Sand the flooring smooth and remove any traces of contact cement that would interfere with the positioning of the walls on the base.

6. Using a knife, carefully cut the flooring away from covering the square hole in the floor. This is best done from the underside of the floor.


1. Assemble Chimney. See Page 17. Add brick to Chimney after Base is bricked.

2. Mask the hardwood flooring with tape and paper to prevent paint from the bricking process from getting on the floor.

3. Paint the base walls (including the loose base bay walls) with a latex paint. This paint will become the mortar lines between the bricks. Black, white, and grey are popular. Let dry.

4. Peel the webbing from the brickwork pattern as in Figure 8. Wrap it around the base leaving enough overhang to hold on to for removal. Press firmly for full contact. Apply webbing to loose base walls as well. Figure 9.

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5. To cover 1 foot of brick template tape it takes 1 ounce or 1 ~ tablespoons of brick powder. Put about 3 tablespoons of Tacky glue (or other white glue) into a cup, add about 1\ tablespoons of water to the glue. Mix well. Put about the appropriate amount of brick powder for the length of surface you are going to immediately brick into a different cup. Slowly add small amounts of glue mixture to the brick powder (It is easy to add too much glue mixture). Mix after each addition. Continue until mixture starts to hold its own shape.

6. Spread brick mix over webbing with a putty knife about 1/16" thick. If you would like to paint the brick to change its color or give it an aged look, then spray paint the brick now before the webbing is removed.

7. Remove webbing within 5 minutes. Stick the overhanging webbing to a piece of scrap wood and pull as you did when taking the webbing off of the backing. The wood handle will help pull off the webbing evenly.

8. If needed, touch up the bricks with a small piece of wood while the bricks are still soft.


1. Cut twelve 10 3/4" lengths of small tower corner post. Lay a strip of masking tape on the table with the sticky side facing up. Lay the posts on the tape with the ends flush as in Figure 10.

Run a bead of glue in the "V" of the posts and tape the posts together using the tape as a hinge. Repeat the process until you have 4 of these assemblies.

2. Cut four 10 3/4" lengths from the large tower corner post. Glue these to the four small tower corner posts as in Figure 11. Trim the edge off of the large tower corner post.

3. Trim hardwood floor so the tower corner post assemblies can fit. Note where the large/small combinations assemblies are positioned. The large side of the assemblies fits over the bricked walls and will later accept the siding walls. Glue the loose bricked base walls into place. Locate bay walls (Sheets HR-5 and 6). Glue into place as in Figure 12.

Make sure the grooves are clear of wood chips. Seat walls into grooves completely.

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1. Cut two 14" lengths from the large edge trim. Cut five-14" lengths and one 16" lengths from the large corner post.

2. When assembling walls run a bead of glue in the grooves of the posts then fit walls into the grooves. Glue the bottom of the walls to the floor. Wipe away excess glue with a damp cloth. Fully seat walls into grooves. It may help to lightly sand the edges of the walls to remove burrs.

3. Assemble walls according to Figures 13 through 17. When assembling walls around bays, make sure the measurement from the outside edges of the siding is 10 3/8". Tape into position.

4. The 16" length of large corner post goes at the front edge of the right small side wall and down through the square hole in the floor. Glue a scrap piece of wood to the post under the floor to help hold the post from pulling up.

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4. Locate the first story room partition. Add small edge trim to both vertical edges of the partition before gluing in place. See back view for positioning. The shelf goes to the front of the house. Use the framing square to be sure room partition is square with house.

5. Trim the inside and outside wall/floor junctions with universal trim. If you plan to wallpaper the inside of the walls, wait to trim the inside of the walls until after you paper.

6. Tape masking tape around the bottoms of all walls so the varnish will not get on the walls, trim, or posts.

7. Finish the hardwood flooring with two or three coats of satin sheen polyurethane varnish. Steel wool lightly between coats. When the final coat is dry, remove the masking tape.


Note: If you plan to wallpaper your house, this is a good time to do it.

1. Locate all first story and bay window surrounds, frames, sliders, sills, and glass (Sheets HR-5, 6, 10, 11, 12, 15 and 18).

2. Cut out window glass. Lay an outside frame/surround part (the outside frame remains connected to the outside surround) on a table with the good side down. Run a thin bead of glue around the window opening. Spread glue evenly. With clean hands, place glass on the frame, make sure it is centered. With a pencil, press the glass down for full contact with the glue. Figure 18.

3. Lay the slider (widest frame) on the table with the good side down. Run a thin bead of glue around the opening. Spread glue evenly leaving 1/8" on each wide side dry (this is the sliding surface). Place the glass on the slider, then place the inside frame on the glass. Figure 19.

4. Dry fit the surrounds and sill into the window opening in the wall. To do this, tape the outside surround to the outside of the wall, tape the inside surround in place, insert the sill diagonally and lower in place (it should hold the surrounds in place), untape the surrounds, slide them to one side and insert the slider/frame assembly with the slider facing the outside, and center the surrounds on the wall opening. Check that the window slides freely. Glue surrounds and sill into place. See Figure 20.

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5. Repeat this process for the other first story window and the bay windows. The bay windows do not have sills. Make the bottom of the wall opening flush with the bottom of the opening in the surrounds. Remember the outside frames remain attached to the outside surrounds. Figure 21.


1. Locate the door parts (Sheet HR-16). Cut out door windows. Lay the inside door panel good side down. Spread glue around openings. Center glass on door. Glue the two door panels together so the pivot pins line up. Glue outside decorative inserts into place. Figure 22.

2. Glue the overhead window glass to the bad side of the opening of a door surround.

3. Dry assemble door into wall opening. To do this, hold the inside and outside surround in place, install the pivot plates with the pivot holes on the right, insert door pivot pins into pivot holes (pivot pins may need to be sanded round to operate smoothly), slide surrounds down to the floor so that the bottoms of the surrounds are in the notches of the bottom pivot plate. When proper operation is attained, glue in place. See Figure 23.


1. Locate the second floor back, second floor front, porch roof, right bay roof, porch roof splice, right bay roof splice, and second floor splices (Sheets HR-7, 8, 14 and 17).

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2. Lay the floors on the table with the good side down. Glue splices in position as in Figure 24.


1. Cut 1/4"xl/4" molding to fit and glue in place Glue the top edge of the molding flush with the junction line of the fifth and sixth siding boards all around the inside of the walls (see Figure 25) except on the left side wall, glue a 7" piece to the front part and a 1 1/2" piece to the back part of the wall leaving approximately a six inch gap between them. Also, glue the molding around the outside of the walls where the porch roof will set.

2. Using a knife, trim tongue from the top of the siding in the bottom of the window opening where the porch roof window will go.

3. Run a bead of glue on top of the second floor supports, then slide the floor down between and around the walls. Tape in place and set weights on the floor to hold the edges down.


1. Locate porch arches and porch squares (Sheets HR-4, 13, 14, and 17).

2. Locate the three 8 1/8" lengths of 1/2"xl/2" molding.

3. Assemble as in Figure 26. Notice that the ends of the arches are centered on the posts. Assemble upside down to keep the top edges flush. The two same length arches go in front.

4. Slide the porch squares onto the posts and glue in place.

5. Dry fit post assembly in place as in front view. Carefully mark where the bottoms of the posts set by applying tape to the floor around the post. Remove the post assembly. Scratch away the varnish so the glue will adhere to the hardwood flooring. Glue the post assembly in place. Add half porch squares at the walls.

6. Cut to fit the small tower corner post molding for the edges of the bay roof and porch roof edges as on label. Figure 27.

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7. Glue decorative brackets in place. See front of instructions for locations.


1. Locate the staircase parts (Sheets HR-7, l4, and 15). Assemble as in Figure 28.

2. Glue dowels into staircase landing and staircase treads, except for two of the double hole treads.

3. Glue treads and landing onto staircase (treads with two holes go on the top. half of the staircase). The two treads without the dowels are the top two steps. The dowels will be glued in place after installation. See figure 29.

4. Glue staircase in place. See Figure 29.

5. Glue dowels into remaining steps and into 2nd floor.

6. Locate small edge trim. Cut to fit for hand rails up the stairs and around the banister. Figure 29.


1. Locate the gables (Sheets HR-10, 11, and 12). Lay a gable on the table with the good. side up. Starting 4 1/4" from the bottom draw lines parallel to the bottom 1/2" apart. Figure 30.

2. Glue fancy shakes to the gables. The top of the shakes line up on the line. Rows of shakes are shifted 1/2 a shake width from the row below. Figure 31.

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3. After the glue has dried thoroughly, trim the shakes with a sharp knife. Start at the bottom to minimize the chance of the shakes splitting. Make sure the shakes are trimmed from the tabs. Figure 32.

4. Repeat process for other two gables.


1. Locate porch roof window side walls, front wall, window surrounds, frames, sill, and slider (Sheet HR-l). Cut two 6" lengths from the small corner post molding and two 6" lengths from the large corner post molding.

2. Glue the large corner posts to the siding walls with the grooves facing the front of the house. Glue the side walls into the grooves. Glue the small corner posts to the side walls. Glue the front wall into the grooves. Figure 33.

3. Trim posts to the same angle as the front wall gable.

4. Install windows exactly as you did with the bay windows except this window has a sill. Remember the outside frame stays in the surround. Figure 34.


1. Locate swinging window surrounds, frames, pivot plates, pivot plate supports (Sheets HR-10, 11, 12 and 13) and glass.

2. Glue the swinging window glass in place so that it is sandwiched between the swinging window frames.

3. Glue the gable window glass to the inside of the gables so it is centered.

4. Glue the swinging window surrounds and top pivot plates to the gables.

5. Glue the gables to the walls. Glue universal trim to the inside and outside of the gable/wall junction lines.

6. Dry fit the frames and pivot plates in place like the front door. The pins will need to be sanded round for proper operation. The pivot plate supports go under the bottom pivot plates. Figure 35.

7. Using a small saw, trim the corner posts and large edge trim to the same angle as the gables.

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5. Glue in place.


1. Locate back roof parts and splice (Sheet HR-14). Lay the roof parts on the table with the good side down. Glue splice in position. Figure 36.

2. Locate the front roof parts and splice (Sheet HR-13). Repeat process.

3. Locate remaining roof parts (Sheets HR-15, 16, and 17).

4. Lay all roof parts on the table with the good side up and the top edges away from you. The top edges have notches.

5. Draw lines parallel to the bottom edges 7/8" apart starting 1" from the bottom. Figure 37. Keep weight on the roof parts until installation to reduce warpage.

6. Stick a piece of tape on each gable tab. Glue all roof parts in place except the back roof, wait until the attic floor has been installed. Tape the back roof to the back side of the gables by feeding the tape through the inside slots and taping the roof into place. Repeat the process for the front roof. Interlock the tops of the front and back roof pieces. Glue and tape together. Figure 38.

7. Repeat the process for the front gable. Interlock the top and diagonal edges.

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8. Continue with roof outcrop section. Make sure edges are interlocked tightly and the notches are at the top. Locate the flat roof top piece (Sheet HR-16). Glue it into place at the top of the roof outcrop section.

9. Repeat process for porch roof window gable.

10. Locate gable trim (Sheets HR-1, 10, 11, and 12). Glue into outside slots. See label.


1. Locate attic floor front, back, and splice (Sheet HR-9). Lay floor parts face down. Glue and tape splice into position as in Figure 39.

2. Cut three 6 3/4" lengths of 1/4"xl/4" molding to fit across the inside of the gables flush with the bottom of the slots. Glue into place. These will be the third floor supports.

3. Glue and tape the attic floor in place.

4. Glue the back roof in place.

5. Locate the second story room partitions (Sheet HR-17). Glue the small one in place against the same wall as the porch roof window. Make sure the position of the large partition allows. Clearance for the attic ladder (dry fit this for now until the ladder assembly is completed and proper positioning is determined). See Figure 41.


1. Cut Cut two 3/4" lengths from the small tower corner post molding. Locate 9 small dowels. Locate the ladder latch, latch plate, and pivot plates (Sheet HR-9).

2. Assemble latch. Glue the two 3/4" lengths of small tower corner post to latch plate. Figure 40. Glue latch catch to latch slider. Slide (no glue) latch slider into latch plate assembly.

3. Assemble ladder. Glue dowels into small edge trim 1" apart starting 1/8" from one end. Cut a 1 3/4" length of medium edge trim (5-41). This is the ladder hinge. Figure 41.

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4. Glue and tape the ladder in position making sure the ladder has clearance when it swings down. You may need to round the tops of the small edge trim. Glue ladder latch in place. It fits between the dowels. The latch catch hooks under a dowel to hold the ladder up. Figure 42.

5. Glue large second story room partition in place. See Figure 41.

6. Locate attic room partition. Glue in place next to attic access hole. See back view.


1. Glue the shakes on the roof starting from the bottom and working up. Align the top edges of each row of shakes with the lines you drew earlier. The rows should be staggered so that each shake covers a portion of the two shakes below.

2. Cut the shakes to the appropriate angles where needed with a sharp knife.

3. Add row of horizontal shakes for ridge cap. See label.

4. Add redwood trim to edges of gables.


1. Locate porch roof banister parts (Sheets HR-8, 13, and 14). Glue together as in Figure 43.

2. Trim to fit small edge trim on top and bottom.

3. Glue to top of porch roof.


1. Locate chimney parts (Sheet HR-8). Assemble as in Figure 44.

2. Add brick.

3. Glue in place.


1. Using the universal trim, trim all remaining inside and outside floor/wall junctions.

2. Using the small edge trim, trim the back edges of the floors.


1. Cut the gutters to fit bottom roof edges. Glue the gutters to the underside of the shakes.

2. Add down spout. See label.

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End of Instructions.

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